Marches, Romans and MuZIEum – the Oldest City in the Netherlands

Nijmegen may not be the first place that springs to mind when you think of the Netherlands, but here’s why it should be on your bucket list of places to visit. Tucked along the banks of the river Waal, this vibrant city blends over 2,000 years of history with a lively, modern atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where Roman ruins, medieval squares, and cutting-edge museums sit comfortably side by side.

And for us, it turned out to be the perfect weekend escape.

A Weekend Away

After months of illness, quarantines, and disrupted routines (as many families can relate to), we needed a break. For my birthday, we packed our bags and headed to Nijmegen, a city actually close to home and full of things to do.

We had no idea just how much it would surprise us.

A City Steeped in History

Nijmegen proudly holds the title of the oldest city in the Netherlands, with roots stretching back to Roman times. 2000 years ago. when the Romans took a liking to Nijmegen, it was known as Ulpia Noviomagus Batavorum. Thankfully, the name changed to Nijmegen, which certainly makes life easier for us.

Back then it was just a hill next to a river (the Waal) but it became the largest Roman town in the Netherlands. Due to its position, it became a major hub and a strategically important settlement. Today, traces of that past are still visible throughout the city, if you know where to look.

The Famous Four Day Marches

If Nijmegen rings a bell, it might be because of the Nijmegen 4Daagse, the international 4 day march that takes place here every year (pandemics aside). With tens of thousands of participants, including many military walkers, it’s a huge moment in the city’s calendar. In fact, my Welsh dad walked it twice during his army days!

It is an event that has been organised for over 100 years. And if you have school-aged children in the Netherlands, chances are they have done their own version of it!

Museums Worth Your Time

Nijmegen punches above its weight when it comes to museums.

Each offers a different lens on the city, but for us one experience stood out above them all…..

MuZIEum: Seeing Without Sight

MuZIEum warrants a special mention and a section of its own. This was the highlight of our trip, by far. It’s an experience that will stay with us. This isn’t your typical museum. Instead of just looking at exhibits, you experience what it’s like to live with visual impairment.

After a short introduction, you’re handed a cane and guided into complete darkness. Not dim lighting. No shadows. Total. absolute blackness. For the next hour your world shrinks to sound, touch, and trust. Your guide, who is blind or partially sighted, leads you through everyday situations: navigating a home, crossing a street, going to the cinema, having a drink in a bar.

My initial reaction was slight panic for a few minutes. The guide’s voice is the only directional guide you have, as well as the cane you have to stop you walking into objects. It’s a scary experience realising you cannot see anything at all, and it will be that way for 60 minutes. It was disorienting, unsettling. Slowly your other senses sharpen, but I absolutely cannot say I got used to the lack of vision. It is intense and humbling.

When you finally step back into the light, there’s a moment of relief, but also a deeper awareness: your guide doesn’t experience that moment. This is their everyday reality.

Ironically, the most eye-opening museum experience I have ever had and I cannot recommend highly MuZIEum enough.

There’s also lots to explore in the main room of the museum: games, writing braille, interactive information screens. In short, tools to help you understand what life is like as a blind person.

We were exhausted when we came out of MuZIEum, and so after a short stroll (and an unsuccessful visit to the cat cafe (see places to eat below)) we decided to head to the cinema.

Worth Seeing

Beyond the museums, Nijmegen is a joy to explore.

Grote Markt

The Grote Markt is the beating heart of Nijmegen, lined with historic buildings and buzzing terraces. You’ll find some of the oldest buildings in the city here. It’s a perfect spot for people watching and soaking up the atmosphere with a coffee or a beer.

De Waagh is particularly worth a mention. In short, gezellig.

Stevenskerk

Even from the outside, Stevenskerk is an impressive sight. (The church opens it doors up from April 1 and we were too early). You can take a tour and climb the church tower, but just the outside is definitely worth a gander too if heights are not your thing.

Valkhof Park & De Waal

Start at Valkenhof park, home to the remnants of historic structures, and wander down to the banks of the river Waal (de Waalkade).

The Waalkade has clearly recently undergone a metamorphose. It feels rejuvenated and fresh. There are lots of cafes and restaurants to choose from.

Along the way, you’ll stumble across quirky spots like the Fietsmuseum Velorama, which is as the name suggests, is a museum about bikes, and the Escape Boot (basically an escape room on a boat). Look out for the ‘water wolf and the boy’ sculpture.

Food, Cats & Pancakes on a Boat

You can pick and choose where and what to eat in Nijmegen. You name it, it’s probably there somewhere. Nijmegen has something for everyone when it comes to culinary tastes.

Worth mentioning is the Kattencafé Balthzar – if you are a cat lover that is. Basically it’s a cat cafe. We attempted to grab a coffee here, but there was nowhere to sit. Cats and humans had claimed every seat.

Another fun option is the Pannenkoekenboot – a pancakes cruise. What’s not to love when you don’t have to choose between sightseeing and pancakes?

Where to Stay in Nijmegen

Nijmegen offers a wide range of accommodation from hotels, guest houses, holiday homes and hostels.

As a family of five finding somewhere to stay for a weekend away is always….. a challenge, to say the least. Most hotels cap rooms at four people, which usually means booking two rooms. And guess what – that doubles the cost. So, discovering a spacious family room at Van Der Valk Nijmegen-Lent hotel felt like striking gold. It comprised two bedrooms, a bathroom and separate toilet. And the view over the city was lovely too. There definitely should be more offerings like this for families of five-plus!

Tip: if you are in the same boat and are looking for hotel rooms for more than 4 people have a look on Sleeps5.com.

Final Thoughts

Nijmegen is one of those places that quietly exceeds expectations. It’s historic without feeling heavy – not culture or history is forced down your throat – a relief to many teenagers. It therefore feels like fun – lively but not overwhelming. And there’s an experience you won’t get anyway else in the form of the MuZIEum. If you are looking for a destination in the Netherlands that offers something a little different, far from the hustle and bustle of the Randstad, Nijmegen hits the spot.

Over to You

Have you been to Nijmegen? I’d love to hear your tips, favourite spots, or unexpected finds.